Here we go again! Second day of the Jacket Mimi Sewalong. I hope you have cut the pattern pieces and got your fabric. Today we will cut the fabric, transfer the marks from the pattern pieces onto the fabric and sew the lower pockets.
For cutting: please have in mind that all schnittchen patterns are already with seam allowances! So pin all pattern pieces onto the fabric and cut along the paper edges. Seam and hem allowances must NOT be added additionally!
A pattern list with all pattern pieces, you will find on the sewing instruction. The jacket is cut double layered, that is, the fabric is laid on fold, the right (the “beautiful”) side facing inward and the left side upwards. Pin all pattern pieces regarding the grainline (arrow on pattern pieces). The grainline must run parallel to the fabric edges. Also note that some pattern pieces have to be cut on fold.
In addition to the fabric, some pieces have to be cut also in fusible interfacing. These are: the front facing, the pocket facing, the outer and the inside collar ( if your sew the version with collar ), the cuff and the back facing (if you sew the version without collar). Attach the fusible interfacing on the left side of these fabric pattern pieces. Please adhere to the manufactor’s instructions.
If all pattern pieces are cut and the above are attached with fusible interfacing, leave the paper pattern pieces pinned onto the fabric because for now, the marks must be transferred to the fabric. I always transfer the notches (small strokes) at the edges of the paper pattern pieces (hem, front and back center, sleeve notches) with a small incision into the seam allowance. Attention! Do not cut more than the seam allowance ( 1 cm ) …
It is very important that you transfer the notches at the hem and the front. Later, these are important for placing the lining!
I transferred the pocket marks first with copy paper onto the left fabric side and then with thread onto the right side. So the marks are clear and you can attach the pockets appropriately.
First, the pocket facing is sewn right sides together against the lining. You can best check what way around by first putting the facing rights sides together to the pocket.
Next step you will you have to sew the pocket linings right sides together to the pockets (outer fabric). Note that the lining is all around 0.3 mm smaller than the outer fabric pocket. You have to drag it a bit to the edge and then sew.
To bring out the curves of the bags more evenly adjust the stitch on the sewing machine to the smallest possible stitch length while sewing the curves. So you do not run the risk to “rush over the curves”…
Leave a 2 cm wide hole in the center of the lower edge for turning the pocket over later.
Turn pocket over and work out the edges and the corners carefully.
Do not press the pockets! There are two ways to sew the pockets to the front pieces. For the trickier one (you will not see any seams) you first have to close the hole. I did it by hand so you do not see this seam either.
The simple version is to just sew the pockets as close to the edge as it is possible all the way round. This is much more easier and you can close the hole together with this step.
For both ways you pin the pockets first on the front parts. For the elaborate version move the outer fabric a little bit to the side and only pin the lining onto the front piece.
Then only sew the lining to the front piece as close as close as possible to the edge.
As the lining is smaller the outer fabric will then cover up the stitches and make them invisible.
If you are unsure usisng your sewing machine as it is a little bit difficult to sew the corners you could also do this by hand or just – as I said before – choose the simpler version .
Well, first big steps are taken! Tomorrow we will sew the breast pocket, adjust the yoke to the back and close the shoulderseams.
Whenever you are ready to show something of your work you can do so by either linking your blog via the Inlinkz button or via Instagram using hashtag #jacketmimisewalong!
Sewlong – Your Silke !