Since nearly one year I have this beautiful frabric from stoffe meyer at home and it is waiting to become a Coco… It’s a 99% cotton and only 1% polyester mix wit a nice, even ethno white, blue, red, yellow-green weaving pattern – perfect for Coco!
Now finally it’s done and I made some photos while sewing and I made up a step-by-step phototutorial for you that makes it even easier to sew Coco.
Apropos, Sewing Pattern Jacket Coco is “schnittchen of the month” throughout february, this means both – pdf-Download and printed pattern is reduced in price!
So, have fun sewing!
( 1 ) Neaten all edges using a zigzag-stitch. Fuse the interfacings to the facing fabric according to the instructions given by the manufacturer.
( 2 ) Sewing the outer jacket: Sew the darts of the front piece. Press sewing allowance towards the side.
( 3 ) Pin back pieces right sides together and sew the back seam. Press seam open.
( 4 ) Place front and back pieces right sides together and close the shoulder seams. Press seams open. Close side seams and press seams open as well.
( 5 ) Press bottom hem up 4 cm, leave rounded corner untouched.
( 6 ) Pin upper and lower sleeves right sides together and sew. Press seams open. Press sleeve hems up 4 cm.
( 7 ) Close the sleeve seams, press seams open. To gather the sleeves to fit the sleeve cap set your machine to a really wide straight stitch width. Then sew one line of gathering stitches from one of the cap marks to the other. Do not backstitch and leave a couple of cm of thread free on both sides.
( 8 ) Pin sleeve to the body of the jacket right sides together, make sure that the sleeve and side seam as well as the marks match up. Now gently pull the bobbin thread of the gathering stitches until the sleeve fits into the armhole. Spread it out nice and evenly. Stitch the sleeves to the body and make sure you do not add unwanted puckers.
( 9 ) Sewing the lining jacket: Sew the darts of the front piece. Press sewing allowance towards the side.
( 10 ) Sew the pleat in the back middle according to the marks (there are two seams: one starting from the mark in the neckhole to the dot mark, the other one from the mark at the bottom edge to the second dot mark. Press the pleat towards the left.
( 11 ) Pin the front facings to the front lining right sides together. Sew, stop about 2 cm before the bottom edge. Press sewing allowance towards the side.
( 12 ) Pin the back facings to the back lining right sides together and sew. The sewing allowance is facing down, clip when needed.
( 13 ) Pin the front and back lining right sides together, close the shoulder seams and press sewing allowance towards the back. Close the side seams, again press sewing allowance towards the back.
( 14 ) Pin upper and lower sleeves right sides together and sew. Press seams open. Close the sleeve seams. Leave a gap of 20 cm in the left sleeve seam. You will need this for turning the finished jacket right side out.
( 15 ) Press seams open. Sew in sleeves the same way the outer sleeves were inserted. See 7. & 8. for further details.
( 16 ) Connecting the lining and the outer jacket: Pin jackets right sides facing each other. Sew along the neckline and the rounded front edges. Clip sewing allowance where needed and press open at the front edge.
( 17 ) Turn jacket through turning hole and put the lining hem right side facing the outer hem. Stitch the lining hem to the outer hem adding a 1 cm sewing allowance to the lining.
( 18 ) Turn the jacket right sides out. Bring jacket in order: place the lining sleeves in outer sleeves. Stitch the lining sleeves to the outer sleeves adding a sewing allowance of 1 cm to the lining. To do so, turn sleeves through turning hole. Make sure the sleeve hems are placed right sides together.
( 19 ) Turn jacket right sides out and close the turning hole. Damp the front edge, neckline, sleeve hems and jacket hem. Do this from the inside to prevent any ironing marks on the outside.