Sewing Pattern Tunica Katha has a slit opening in the front, which is bound with a hidden placket. You can sew a sleeveless version of Katha, one with cuff sleeves or with long sleeves and slim cuffs. The tunica can be sewn in two different lengths (up to the hip or covering the bottom). The hemline is curved. Sewing Pattern Tunica Katha is more complex to sew. Sewing knowledge is advisable.
fits women’s sizes: 34/36/38/40/42/44/46
Fabric Recommendation: Cotton, Light Denim, Viscose, Jersey
The following photo tutorial shows the most important steps. The numbers correspond with the numbers of the sewing instruction.
2) Close the bust darts in the front piece and the waist darts in the back piece. To do so place the marks for the darts in such a fashion that they match up accurately. The right side of the fabric is inside. Sew from the wide end to the point of the dart. Backstitch at the beginning but sew a few stitches beyond the tip of the dart without backstitching. Press the darts to the front, respectively the back center.
4) Pin the back facings each to the plackets, right sides together. Close shoulder seams, neaten seam allowances in one go and press to the back.
5) Notch the seam allowance of the outer placket (with fusible interfacing) in the corners as far as the mark using pointed scissors.
6) Add the outer placket to the front piece. To do so pin the outer placket to the front piece, right sides together. Sew the placket on and while doing so pull the notch on the placket gently apart so that the tip of the notch matches up with the corner mark in the front piece. This way the placket is flush with the hemline of the front piece. Sew over the intersection in the corner. To do so leave the needle down, lift the footer, align front piece and placket, lower footer and continue sewing.
7) Carefully notch the seam allowances along the curves using pointed scissors and press up and towards the front center. Turn placket out and press the head opening from the right.
8) Close the front center of the outer placket as far as the mark. Press seamallowances open.
9) Pin the upper front piece to the bottom front piece, right sides together and close the cross-seam. Neaten seam allowances in one go and press up.
10 and 11) Pin back piece to the front piece, right sides together and close side seams. Neaten seam allowances of the right side seam in one go and press back. WARNING: Leave an opening for the zipper in the left side seam! Press seam allowances open.
13) Close the shoulder darts in the sleeves. Please adhere to instruction in step 2.
14) Pin sleeves so that they form a tube, right sides together and close sleeve seams. Neaten seam allowances in one go and press back.
15) Pin the sleeve cuffs to form a tube, right sides together and close sleeve seams. Press seam allowances open.
17) Gather the sleeve’s hemline in two lines to match the width of the cuffs (lengthen your stitch to its longest setting – at least 4). Don’t backstitch in the beginning nor the end but leave 20 cm of thread on the end of the seam.
18) Pin the cuffs to the sleeve’s hemline, right sides together. If necessary pull the bobbin thread of the gathering seam to adjust width.
19) Sew cuffs to the hemline, neaten seam allowances in one go using a zigzag stitch and press up.
How to sew the zipper you can watch here in two very helpful videos. The first one from Connecting Threads shows how to sew an invisible zipper. Please consider that the textile edge of the zipper matches up with the raw edge of the outer fabric! This is because all schnittchen patterns have a seam allowance of 1 cm.
You can also insert a regular zipper. For this there is another helpful video from MADE Everyday. Check out the second part of the video. For inserting a regular zipper the parts up and below the zipper opening has to be closed and the seam allowances should be pressed.
If you want to sew the tunica with cuff sleeves please follow the tutorial made for a Sewalong for Sewing Pattern Dress Zoe.
15) Apply fusible interfacing to the cuff facings. Fold cuff facings so that they form a tube, right sides together. Close the sleeve seams along the facings. Press seam allowances open.
16) Pin the cuff facings to the sleeves’s hemline, right sides together and sew. Also sew the area of the slit opening. To do so follow the marks you have transferred from the pattern onto the fabric.
17) Now cut the slit opening using pointed scissors. To do so cut in between the two seams.
17) Notch diagonally towards the edges about 1 cm before the end of the slit opening. Notch diagonally the seam allo- wances in the corners of the hemline.
18) Neaten the upper edge of the cuff facing using a zigzag stitch. Fold cuff facings in, work the edges and the slit opening and press well from the right side.
19) Sew the facing at 11 cm from the right.
For binding the armholes check out this video about Sewing Pattern Dress Nani. Starting at minute 5 there is a detailed description of how to bind the armholes.